Bread Alone: In Search of the Best Rye Bread in America:
Two aficionados of traditional Jewish rye track down the country’s tastiest loaves
What’s the matter with New York delicatessens? The smoked meats they serve are succulent, the chopped liver luxurious, the knoblewurst gnarly, but for the anemic rye they use to make sandwiches, a knuckle rapping is in order.
We marched to the cash register of the esteemed 2nd Ave Deli after enjoying fine, spice-rimmed pastrami on slices of what could have been Wonder bread with a tan, and expressed our extreme disappointment to the poor cashier. “I know, I know,” she shrugged. “Good rye is hard to find.” If you’ve eaten sandwiches in other famous Jewish-style delis in New York, you believe her. Katz’s and the Carnegie Deli, grand as they may be in other respects, also embarrass good meat with lightweight bread, in which crust and crumb are nearly indistinguishable and caraway seeds are curiously devoid of flavor.
Via Saveur.
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